I saw the initial design of this watch in March 2019, when only a few people knew about its creation. At that time, I was also able to see all the considered color versions, of which there were nine (sic!).
Of the versions that were considered a year and a half ago, two were finally brought into production, and two more were added during the debate on this model, which took place at the KMZiZ forum.
Initially, I didn’t really like the watch with its styling, because it seemed too simple and a bit unreadable at the same time.
The basic design of the watch has not changed much since March 2019, but among the added color versions, there is one that I have always liked about watches. In addition, the manufacturer listened to the “voice of the people” and decided to produce this watch on a dedicated, steel bracelet. These factors made me one of the first people to be the proud owner of the latest Vratislavia diver watch, the Klingert 1797 model.
Writing a review of this model went very smoothly for me, and thanks to this it is probably the first subjective and extensive evaluation of this watch that you can read / see in the Internet.
Surprise … the longitudinal boxes made of light wooden slats in the latest Vratislavia watches have been replaced by solid, magnet-closed, wood cases, which – note – are also oblong 😊 This is a leap in quality compared to the previous ones packaging by about 400%.
It was supposed to be like that. Marcin announced that the watches would be delivered in much more solid packaging and he kept his word. The new boxes are impressive and I hope they will stay with this manufacturer for good.
I was most afraid of this element of the whole project. Unfortunately, my concerns are partially
confirmed. A case 42mm wide, 13mm high and almost 50mm long from lug to lug is in my opinion too big for this particular watch design.
It’s not too big for my 18cm wrist, but this watch would look better in a 2mm smaller size. I had the same feeling when I was wearing the Trident C65 from Christopher Ward; supposedly, the size of the watch should not overwhelm, but with such a narrow bezel and general design, referring to the vintage style, its size did not match the rest of the watch. The size of the watch is also enhanced by the jubilee bracelet, which, with a width of 22mm and thick links, makes a very massive impression. This watch would be ideal with a 40mm case width and 20mm between the lugs, assuming the aspect ratio would not change.
Okay, enough complaining! There is no tragedy, it just could be better.
And this is how the watch looks on my 18cm wrist.
In the design of the case, the thickness surprised me – the watch doesn’t look like its 13mm, even if we take into account the vertically cut sides. The case looks more like 12 or even 11.5mm (for comparison, the side of the Tourby, which has the same dimensions as the Vratislavia).
The sides of the case together with the lugs have been polished, while the upper surface of the lugs and the bottom are brushed. The polishes are flawless, and the area between the lugs has been nicely finished with vertical brushing. In general, the design of the case is very simple, the lugs are classic, quite long and only slightly curved downwards.
The screwed-in crown is logged and has no guard on the sides, it is quite large and has cuts, thanks to which it is easy to handle. It fits well with the entire project.
This is another watch that I have recently bought and equipped with the Japanese Miyita 9015. Automatic movement with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, with a stop-second function and the possibility of winding from the crown. My copy is very precise, making exactly +1 seconds a day. Probably it was adjusted so before assembly, because it’s not the first watch from this manufacturer in my collection that works with such accuracy.
The 120-click bezel that rotates only to one side (left) has notches in the style of the so-called coin edge, which is very dense and fine. It has a classic height, it’s neither tall nor low; so medium, which makes me wonder where the 13mm case is, because “it’s not here either” 😊
From the top, the bezel is very narrow, the insert itself is made of steel, coated with black DLC and white superluminova at the indices. All indices are long lines, every 5 minutes the line is twice longer and thicker, and at 12 o’clock there is the largest index in the form of a rectangle. Such a bezel is not very legible, its function is rather stylistic, you can mark the time on it if necessary, but you cannot count on reading it by looking at the watch quickly.
The bezel works nicely, with adequate resistance, giving a click that is pleasant for the ear, but it has a lot of slack and after setting it, you need to turn it back a bit to see what its real position is, often it seems to me that I have already set it, and then it turns out that I have to twist one more click and a little back to put it in the right place.
The advantage of the bezel is its perfect position, there is no mismatch between the indices and the dial, which is not so obvious with such a number of markings.
I choosed the version with a gray dial and a teal color chapter ring. The dial itself has a very sunburst effect, and shimmers strongly depending on the change in the angle of incidence of light. Its colors vary from silver to graphite. Regardless of how you look at it, you can always see a metallic gleam on it, it never seems matte for a moment, and when looking straight ahead, it flashes in full, showing its full sunburst texture. There are the main, applied hourly indices on the dial. The indices are steel, finished in a similar way to the dial, they are trapezoidal shape, with a white superluminova line in the center. The manufacturer’s logo is placed under the 12 o’clock index, and above the 6 o’clock index, we have the image of a sea-colored mermaid and information about the movement and the water resistance class, which have been printed with white paint.
Unlike most watches, the chapter ring plays a very important role in this model. It is placed slightly lower than the dial and is so distinguished in color that it is the first eye-catcher when you look at the watch. It’s very densely marked with indices in the form of dashes – there are 5 small white dashes between each second. The second markings are slightly thicker and longer lines, while the lines painted every 5 minutes are the thickest and the longest. In my version, the ring has a teal color, which perfectly matches the gray of the dial and the black of the bezel. I already had a watch in such colors (Zelos Mako) and for a long time I tried to buy it again and thanks to Vratislavia I don’t have to look for it anymore.
The indices are flawless and, like the bezel, both elements of the dial are perfectly matched to each other. We have perfect symmetry here, my eye doesn’t pick up any imperfections, and the photos enlarged confirm it. The quality is at the highest level.
The hands are also very impressive – the minute and hour hands are oblong with a sharp ending, the hour hand has a white color, with a white luma in the middle, it’s shorter and thicker than the minute hand. The minute hand, has been painted a sea color and it’s it what impresses me the most; the paint on the needle is even, it reflects light very nicely. I have always liked indices and hands that are different from white or silver color, and the Klingert minute hand lives up to my whim.
The second hand is straight and white, and has a small rectangle with a luminescent mass inside. The hands are designed in such a way that it’s very easy to read the time on the watch. If they were the same color as the dial or indices, a watch based entirely on straight lines would be very illegible. All versions of this model don’t have a date window.
From the top, the watch is covered with a doomed sapphire glass with an internal anti-reflective coating. I have the impression that the inner concavity of the glass is larger than the outer convex, because when looking at the dial at an acute angle, a kind of internal dome appears, and at an even sharper angle, the dial disappears completely obscured by the glass bubble. It’s the glass that adds the 2mm thickness that cannot be seen when looking at the case itself. Looking from the side, we can see that the protuberance is larger than it might seem at first glance.
The luma used in this model is BGW9, this type of luma glows blue. I was pleasantly surprised because the lighting quality of this watch is really good. Luma shines strong and at a decent level. Keep it until morning so that in complete darkness you can read the time without much problem. Of course, the
The caseback is the element that most closely resembles the figure of Karl Heinrich Klingert, after which the watch owes its name. Karl Heinrich Klingert invented the diving suit for working under water in 1797. The caseback is engraved with a figure in Klingert’s suit, underwater accompanied by a mermaid. The whole thing looks very fabulous, but the suit looked like that, and in those days people believed in mermaids (and other non-existent creatures 😉), so everything is in its place.
The engraving is quite shallow, around it is engraved the standard information about the watch. The caseback itself is screwed in, the watch has a water resistance of 200m.
The Jubilee bracelet is 22mm wide and tapers to 20mm at the clasp. The links are full and very thick. They are attached to each other with classic, push-in pins and if we have a special tool, shortening it is very simple and takes little time.
And again I will stick to the size … The bracelet would look better if it narrowed to 18mm, and the links are too thick for this particular watch. Let’s go back to the photo in which I compared the sizes of the Tourby cases – you can see that the links of the Klingert bracelet are much thicker than those of the Tourby, despite the fact that the watch itself is visually thinner. This makes the bracelet seem too bulky in proportion to the watch.
A nice element of the bracelet are the endlinks – very often the end links of jubilee bracelets are completely cast, as if together with the smaller, middle elements. In the case of the Klingert bracelet it is as I think it should be, the middle, fine row is not part of the end link, but is a separate link attached to the end link.
The clasp is a classic, 5-eyelet micro-adjustable button clasp. The clasp is medium-sized, and taking into account the possibility of micro-adjustment, I would classify it as small, which for me is a big plus because I already had watches that had a clasp longer than the watch itself and this is an element that I could not accept.
This is basically the same situation as in the case of the case – the bracelet is of good quality, but in my opinion it is too big / too massive for this watch
For the first few days, I wore my watch on a rubber strap to take away some of its size. Then it went back to the bracelet and the sizes stopped bothering me so much, so I guess it’s just a matter of getting used to its size and accepting it.
My first impressions were mixed, but the Vratislavia Conceptum Klingert 1797 is a type of watch that gains a lot from closer acquaintance and the longer I wear it, the more I like it. It seems to me that this may be due to the discrepancy between what I expected from this watch and idea of designers of this watch. I was expecting a nice diver in a more elegant style and Marcin prepared a typical tool watch for his clients, which is nice to look at at the same time.
Undoubtedly, it is a very successful watch when it comes to the quality of individual elements and the overall level of the entire set. This is also reflected in the price – it is the most expensive model of this manufacturer so far. At the moment, the price of the new copy is PLN 2,180. Probably as with other Vratislavia models, the price will only increase over time, and when the watches sell out, the prices on the secondary market in our country may be even higher. All versions are very limited (only 380 of these watches were madein total, in different numbers, depending on the color – from 80 to 120 per color). Despite the larger size, the watch is more comfortable than Zelos Mako in a similar color, and in my case when it comes to watches, “comfort always wins.”